Saturday 17 February 2018

Exploring Meghalaya, India's abode of the clouds

When it comes to aptly named destinations, the northeast Indian state of Meghalaya is up there with the best.

Meaning "abode of the clouds," it's home to the top two wettest places on earth, according to Guinness World Records. But across this cool, green state, travellers will also find India's cleanest village, the country's highest waterfall and a man who just might be the country's biggest Bob Dylan fan.

To experience a walk in the clouds, start in the town of Cherrapunji (also known as Sohra), which is about an hour and a half drive from Shillong, Meghalaya's capital. With an average annual rainfall of 463 inches, Cherrapunji is the second wettest destination on the planet. It's topped only by the neighbouring village of Mawsynram, which gets 467 inches of rain per year. Compare this with the average annual rainfall of India, which is 11-25 inches (300-650 millimetres).

One of the most photogenic spots in the area is Nohkalikai Falls -- the highest waterfall in the country at 1,115 feet (335 meters). Another worthwhile natural attraction less than seven miles away from the falls, the Mawsmai Caves are dripping with stunning limestone stalactites and stalagmites. Some gnarled, some smooth, they're the result of thousands of years of water erosion.

About 50 miles -- or a 2.5-hour drive -- from Cherrapunji is Mawlynnong, which has been called "Asia's cleanest village" by various publications -- a title its residents take seriously. The narrow lanes are spotless, and locals can be seen cleaning and sweeping the streets throughout the day. Home to a population of 600 people, the village is known for its meticulously manicured gardens. Along the bamboo-lined streets, Khasi women -- a matrilineal, ethnic community in Meghalaya -- sell locally produced honey and spices.

One of Meghalaya's biggest attractions, "living root bridges" have been a part of the local landscapes for more than a century. Unlike modern bridges, made of steel and wires, these structures are grown around betel tree trunks using the strong roots of rubber trees. Stretched across rivers, they're supported by stones and boulders. The living root bridges typically take 15 years to mature but after that can carry up to 50 people at a time. The unspoilt forests of Meghalaya, India are home to a marvel of human ingenuity: the living root bridges.

The most famous is a double-decker bridge in Nongriat village, just over seven miles away from Cherrapunji, called Jingkieng Nongriat. Getting there requires an arduous trek up 2,500 undulating steps through lush jungle.

On your way back to Shillong, stop at the sacred groves of Mawphlang -- a small Khasi village about 16 miles before the city. This is a biodiversity hotspot -- picture mossy piles of leaves underfoot, clumps of mushroom sprouting from fallen tree trunks and handfuls of rudraksh (seeds used as prayer beads by Hindus).

Had enough scenery? Shillong doubles as India's unofficial rock music hub. Apart from consistently producing some of the best music bands in the country, including Soulmate, this small hill town is also home to a dedicated Bob Dylan cafe -- aptly named Dylan's Cafe. Here travellers will find 69-year-old Lou Majaw -- a local rock enthusiast known for his renditions of Dylan's hits.

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